{"id":442991,"date":"2016-11-21T14:24:08","date_gmt":"2016-11-21T14:24:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.moldova.org\/en\/?p=442991"},"modified":"2016-11-21T14:24:08","modified_gmt":"2016-11-21T14:24:08","slug":"movila-magura-monument-passage-time","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.moldova.org\/en\/movila-magura-monument-passage-time\/","title":{"rendered":"Movil\u0103 M\u0103gura- A Monument to the Passage of Time"},"content":{"rendered":"Reading Time: <\/span> 5<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>

Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He is also a contributor to Ukraine Today and is a member of the Hakluyt Society.<\/em><\/p>\n

In western Moldova, the borders of the F\u0103le\u0219ti, Ungheni, and S\u00eengerei districts meet at a place that is most spectacular. The topography is hilly, some of the most dramatic and highest in the country. The poorly maintained roads provide a sense of wild elation as our car speeds over the steep hills and valleys, almost as if one is on a roller coaster. After passing the village of S\u0103rata Veche, my guide, Maria, smiled and beckoned me to look towards the horizon, where I beheld a large hill. There, in the early evening light, one could make out the outline of a large mound crowning the summit in the distance. Thus we had arrived at the M\u0103gura Hill. It is one of the tallest in Moldova, rising to a height of 1200 feet. <\/p>\n

Despite our proximity, we still had a long way to go to reach the mound itself. Reaching the village of S\u0103rata Noua, we left the main road and passed along winding rural roads through Ciolacu Nou and Ciolacu Vechi, often having to make way for passing ducks, turkeys, and geese. The road was, in many places, little more than a trail carved by cars on a dirt path. Had the weather been more wet that day, the climb would have been impossible to traverse by car. After passing through Ciolacu Vechi, quiet woodland greeted us to our left as we continued to climb until we finally reached the plateaued summit, pleased with our progress.
\n\"dsc08746\"
\nUpon arrival, I immediately wrapped my jacket tightly around me, shocked by how heavily the wind blows there. Taking an appraisal at our surroundings, it was easy to understand why. The M\u0103gura Hill towers over the surrounding region. From the summit, one could enjoy a panorama of corn fields, little villages, and forests stretching far towards the west, where the early autumn sun was beginning to set over the river Prut. Towards the eastern slope, there is a tiny compound where a lonely monk lives. Hence derives the name m\u0103gura, which refers to a large and isolated hill in the Romanian language. The name has also inspired the names of numerous villages that can be found around the hill \u2013 M\u0103gurele, M\u0103gura, M\u0103gura Nou\u0103, and Slobozia M\u0103gura.
\n\"dsc08724\"
\nUnlike the mounds at the previously mentioned Sut\u0103 de Movile, the Movil\u0103 M\u0103gura is not a natural formation. It is a true tumulus, or kurgan, as monuments of the type are referred to as in Eastern European archaeology. It stands nearly 50 feet tall, and is crowned with a stone cross that has been plated with reflective stainless steel. As a result, the cross can be seen from a great distance on clear and sunny days. In regards to who may have built the structure, no one really knows. During the 1990s, there were archaeological excavations undertaken at the tumulus which discovered a settlement and pottery fragments of the Cucuteni culture. Taking into consideration that the Cucuteni culture existed from 6000 to 3500 BC, could the tumulus really be much older than the first pyramids in Egypt? <\/p>\n

However, we know next to nothing concerning Cucuteni burials rites. As very few Cucuteni bones have ever been discovered, there are conjectures that range in explanation from the cremation of the deceased to simply scattering their bones far away from settlements. Moreover, the shape and nature of the Movil\u0103 M\u0103gura points towards nomadic steppe cultures far more than the relatively peaceful, settled Cucuteni civilization. Perhaps the tumulus dates from the Yamna culture, the original kurgan culture, which spread from southern Ukraine and Russia into Eastern Europe \u2013 conquering the Cucuteni culture at the end of the Neolithic age. It could also feasibly have been built by their later cultural successors \u2013 the Cimmerians, Scythians, or Sarmatians. Due to the commanding position of the M\u0103gura tumulus, it be unsurprising if we were beholding the tomb of a great warrior or king. <\/p>\n

Geography also comes into question here. The hills and forests of west-central Moldova hardly seem accommodating towards the culture and lifestyle of nomadic hordes. Why would they bury their dead in such a location? As with the Sut\u0103 de Movile, perhaps geology can tell us more. Maria explained to me that studies have been done regarding the soil in F\u0103le\u0219ti district that have concluded that the region may have once been a treeless steppe. According to this theory, the grassy steppe eventually retreated towards southern Moldova and the shores of the Black Sea with the passage of time. As a result, the environment may have supported the type of nomadic cultures that would have produced the M\u0103gura tumulus. Tanya, the archaeologist among us, suggested that the hill may have also served as a lookout point for the surrounding region, where if the alarm were to be raised, it could be viewed over a great distance. I have indeed heard rumor before of other tumuli being used for such a purpose during the times of the Moldovan principality.
\n\"dsc08748\"
\nWhatever its origin, the tumulus has maintained a special place in the souls of the locals from the surrounding villages throughout the centuries. As late as the 1930s, it was considered sacred and often played host to religious rites and traditions. The cross that sits at the top of the tumulus is not the original, but rather a replacement for one that stood there during the interbellum period. When the Soviets conquered Moldova, the original cross was taken down, buried, and was replaced by an observatory. After Moldova’s independence, the present cross was raised and since then \u2013 the area has again become a place for gathering and merrymaking among the local villagers.<\/p>\n

I do not know if the all the questions concerning the M\u0103gura tumulus will ever be solved. There is evidence of illegal archaeology and grave robbing that have taken place at the mound, so if there are any Scythian treasures to be discovered there \u2013 they may have already been found and removed centuries ago. If there are kings or warriors there, then future excavations will be able to tell us more. At the least, it is a most beautiful and majestic sight. It is a symbol of the passage of time, the light from its cross remaining visible long after descending along the winding road, as the sun set towards our backs and we headed into the gathering dusk back towards Chi\u0219in\u0103u, and a well deserved glass of wine. <\/p>\n

The trip was organized with the help of Maria Axenti from YG Moldova.
\nMaria Axenti is an anthropologist at Institute of Cultural Heritage of the Academy of Sciences of Moldova as well as the co-founder of YG Moldova, an organization dedicated to promoting the culture, people, and natural beauty of Moldova. To learn more about her work and for information concerning guided tours, visit YGmoldova.com<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Reading Time: <\/span> 5<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He is also a contributor to Ukraine Today and is a member of the Hakluyt Society. In western Moldova, the borders of the F\u0103le\u0219ti, Ungheni, and S\u00eengerei districts meet at a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":442995,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-442991","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tourism-en"],"content_social_share":"Reading Time: <\/span> 5<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>

Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He is also a contributor to Ukraine Today and is a member of the Hakluyt Society.<\/em><\/p>\n

In western Moldova, the borders of the F\u0103le\u0219ti, Ungheni, and S\u00eengerei districts meet at a place that is most spectacular. The topography is hilly, some of the most dramatic and highest in the country. The poorly maintained roads provide a sense of wild elation as our car speeds over the steep hills and valleys, almost as if one is on a roller coaster. After passing the village of S\u0103rata Veche, my guide, Maria, smiled and beckoned me to look towards the horizon, where I beheld a large hill. There, in the early evening light, one could make out the outline of a large mound crowning the summit in the distance. Thus we had arrived at the M\u0103gura Hill. It is one of the tallest in Moldova, rising to a height of 1200 feet. <\/p>\n

Despite our proximity, we still had a long way to go to reach the mound itself. Reaching the village of S\u0103rata Noua, we left the main road and passed along winding rural roads through Ciolacu Nou and Ciolacu Vechi, often having to make way for passing ducks, turkeys, and geese. The road was, in many places, little more than a trail carved by cars on a dirt path. Had the weather been more wet that day, the climb would have been impossible to traverse by car. After passing through Ciolacu Vechi, quiet woodland greeted us to our left as we continued to climb until we finally reached the plateaued summit, pleased with our progress.
\n\"dsc08746\"
\nUpon arrival, I immediately wrapped my jacket tightly around me, shocked by how heavily the wind blows there. Taking an appraisal at our surroundings, it was easy to understand why. The M\u0103gura Hill towers over the surrounding region. From the summit, one could enjoy a panorama of corn fields, little villages, and forests stretching far towards the west, where the early autumn sun was beginning to set over the river Prut. Towards the eastern slope, there is a tiny compound where a lonely monk lives. Hence derives the name m\u0103gura, which refers to a large and isolated hill in the Romanian language. The name has also inspired the names of numerous villages that can be found around the hill \u2013 M\u0103gurele, M\u0103gura, M\u0103gura Nou\u0103, and Slobozia M\u0103gura.
\n\"dsc08724\"
\nUnlike the mounds at the previously mentioned Sut\u0103 de Movile, the Movil\u0103 M\u0103gura is not a natural formation. It is a true tumulus, or kurgan, as monuments of the type are referred to as in Eastern European archaeology. It stands nearly 50 feet tall, and is crowned with a stone cross that has been plated with reflective stainless steel. As a result, the cross can be seen from a great distance on clear and sunny days. In regards to who may have built the structure, no one really knows. During the 1990s, there were archaeological excavations undertaken at the tumulus which discovered a settlement and pottery fragments of the Cucuteni culture. Taking into consideration that the Cucuteni culture existed from 6000 to 3500 BC, could the tumulus really be much older than the first pyramids in Egypt? <\/p>\n

However, we know next to nothing concerning Cucuteni burials rites. As very few Cucuteni bones have ever been discovered, there are conjectures that range in explanation from the cremation of the deceased to simply scattering their bones far away from settlements. Moreover, the shape and nature of the Movil\u0103 M\u0103gura points towards nomadic steppe cultures far more than the relatively peaceful, settled Cucuteni civilization. Perhaps the tumulus dates from the Yamna culture, the original kurgan culture, which spread from southern Ukraine and Russia into Eastern Europe \u2013 conquering the Cucuteni culture at the end of the Neolithic age. It could also feasibly have been built by their later cultural successors \u2013 the Cimmerians, Scythians, or Sarmatians. Due to the commanding position of the M\u0103gura tumulus, it be unsurprising if we were beholding the tomb of a great warrior or king. <\/p>\n

Geography also comes into question here. The hills and forests of west-central Moldova hardly seem accommodating towards the culture and lifestyle of nomadic hordes. Why would they bury their dead in such a location? As with the Sut\u0103 de Movile, perhaps geology can tell us more. Maria explained to me that studies have been done regarding the soil in F\u0103le\u0219ti district that have concluded that the region may have once been a treeless steppe. According to this theory, the grassy steppe eventually retreated towards southern Moldova and the shores of the Black Sea with the passage of time. As a result, the environment may have supported the type of nomadic cultures that would have produced the M\u0103gura tumulus. Tanya, the archaeologist among us, suggested that the hill may have also served as a lookout point for the surrounding region, where if the alarm were to be raised, it could be viewed over a great distance. I have indeed heard rumor before of other tumuli being used for such a purpose during the times of the Moldovan principality.
\n\"dsc08748\"
\nWhatever its origin, the tumulus has maintained a special place in the souls of the locals from the surrounding villages throughout the centuries. As late as the 1930s, it was considered sacred and often played host to religious rites and traditions. The cross that sits at the top of the tumulus is not the original, but rather a replacement for one that stood there during the interbellum period. When the Soviets conquered Moldova, the original cross was taken down, buried, and was replaced by an observatory. After Moldova’s independence, the present cross was raised and since then \u2013 the area has again become a place for gathering and merrymaking among the local villagers.<\/p>\n

I do not know if the all the questions concerning the M\u0103gura tumulus will ever be solved. There is evidence of illegal archaeology and grave robbing that have taken place at the mound, so if there are any Scythian treasures to be discovered there \u2013 they may have already been found and removed centuries ago. If there are kings or warriors there, then future excavations will be able to tell us more. At the least, it is a most beautiful and majestic sight. It is a symbol of the passage of time, the light from its cross remaining visible long after descending along the winding road, as the sun set towards our backs and we headed into the gathering dusk back towards Chi\u0219in\u0103u, and a well deserved glass of wine. <\/p>\n

The trip was organized with the help of Maria Axenti from YG Moldova.
\nMaria Axenti is an anthropologist at Institute of Cultural Heritage of the Academy of Sciences of Moldova as well as the co-founder of YG Moldova, an organization dedicated to promoting the culture, people, and natural beauty of Moldova. To learn more about her work and for information concerning guided tours, visit YGmoldova.com<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

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