{"id":442041,"date":"2016-04-20T19:22:25","date_gmt":"2016-04-20T19:22:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.moldova.org\/en\/?p=442041"},"modified":"2016-04-20T19:28:27","modified_gmt":"2016-04-20T19:28:27","slug":"along-lesser-traveled-roads-zimbri","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.moldova.org\/en\/along-lesser-traveled-roads-zimbri\/","title":{"rendered":"Along Lesser Traveled Roads – To the Zimbri"},"content":{"rendered":"Reading Time: <\/span> 7<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>

Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He can be reached at darius@cluj.com<\/p>\n

This time he shared with us his thoughts on the reservation P\u0103durea Domneasc\u0103.<\/em><\/p>\n

I am a big fan of the weekly television show Natura in Obiectiv<\/a>. Every Sunday afternoon, for half an hour, I forget that I live in a city that suffers from endless construction projects and the clockwork traffic jams while I am taken on a sensory journey some of the most inviting and scenic locations in Moldova. It is part of what draws me to writing, my desire to document the beauty of nature. I am also good friends with the host, Lucia T\u0103ut, having known her for over seven years. Therefore, the show takes on a special meaning for me, not only to temporarily disconnect and put myself in nature, but to follow up on her adventures, and to learn more about the ethereal garden that is Moldova. Such was my joy when Lucia recently invited me to join her in filming an episode of Natura in Obiectiv. \"DSC07245\"<\/p>\n

On a windy mid-March morning I made my way to the bus stop opposite the National Bank in Chi\u0219in\u0103u and awaited the team from Moldova 1. Allow me to put emphasis on the weather that day. The climate has behaved very strangely in recent years in Eastern Europe. I visited Prague for Christmas and I found myself only needing to wear a jacket due to the unseasonably warm temperatures. Winters have been quite short and in Cluj I remember little more than 3-4 weeks of snow over the past three years all together. This year, spring arrived straight out of the groundhog’s den, leading to a very warm and pleasant February. When I visited Moldova in March however, the winter had decided to make its grand finale \u2013 a week of wet, windy, and cold weather. To my chagrin, I had also failed to remember that the lands east of the Carpathians are generally colder than those to the west. Therefore, I found myself unprepared for winter’s revenge in my thin spring jacket and scarf. After a few minutes of waiting arrived the team in their car. There was the talkative driver, Petru, the rather quiet and pensive cameraman, Vadim, and of course \u2013 Lucia, the host of the show, bright eyes full of warmth and a welcoming smile. After greeting and getting to know my new travel buddies, we departed from the capital and began making our way north. <\/p>\n

The day’s objective was to Glodeni, to visit the P\u0103durea Domneasc\u0103 Nature Reserve. We headed northwards in what turned out to be a pleasant two hour trip. There was much catching up to do between Lucia and myself, as well as being treated to many interesting stories and fun facts from Petru. To my surprise, the road was in excellent condition which only complimented the rural scenery through which we traveled. Much of the road was forested, while in other places there there were green fields winter wheat, hinting at Moldova’s summer beauty, as well as goats and sheep frolicking in the hills. I noted the lack of villages and Petru explained that we were traveling on a former Soviet military road, explaining it’s excellent condition. The road did not pass through villages but rather along their edges so that in times of emergencies, this would help to better facilitate military movements.<\/p>\n

Passing along the outskirts of B\u0103l\u021bi, we turned west into Glodeni raion where road conditions deteriorated. I became a fan of Petru’s humor, who while avoiding perilous potholes pleasantly remarked that Moldova’s roads are in better condition than those in Ukraine. I did not require any flashbacks to my travels in Ukraine to agree with him. We may have spoken too soon however, as the bumpy road led to metallic clinging noises emitting from the back end of the car. Petru spoke in fear that there may be a problem with the car, but I suddenly realized the problem. The noises were stemming from two bottles of wine rubbing against one another in my bag. That problem resolved, we soon arrived in the city of Glodeni where we awaited the arrival of a representative from the nature reserve. He arrived a few minutes later in his own car and we followed him a bit further towards the nature reserve.<\/p>\n

The city of Glodeni is not very large, being home to around 10,000 souls \u2013 primarily Moldovans and Ukrainians. The streets are built along a grid pattern, suggesting that it would be a pleasant place for walking during the summer months. Agricultural production seems to be the chief economic activity of the region, due to the large sugar factory on the western edge of the city. I imagine that would be the best way to describe Glodeni \u2013 the administrative seat of a largely agricultural raion. There was little to note beyond local administrative buildings. To underline things better, the next two villages that we passed through \u2013 H\u00eejdieni and Cobani, seemed almost as large as Glodeni itself. Cobani, in particular caught my eye due to its breathtaking scenery. There, along the River Camenca could be found many lakes and ponds. To the left of the road, there is a dramatic cliff that rises above the surrounding land, overelooking the village. At the summit I noticed a large cross planted, not unlike the one at Orheiul Veche. My curiousity stoked, I inquired with Lucia in regards to nature of these crosses, who explained that there is a tradition among Romanians to put crosses at intersections as a sign of blessing. The same holds true to villages that are located close to hills, cliffs, mounds, etc where crosses are placed on the summits in order to protect the inhabitants from evil phenomonea. They are a sign of hope and faith that God will protect them from evil and allow them to live in peace and quiet. Such is the wonder that stems from traveling – coming to a better understanding of the world as one’s mind is exposed to new concepts and local traditions. <\/p>\n

We soon arrived at the reserve alongside the River Prut and met our guide, Marian \u0162arigradschi, who led us around the area. With him, we made our way along the River Camenca where we climbed an adjacent cliff. Facing towards the west, he explained that on clear days, it is possible to see the Carpathians in Romania. While Lucia interviewed him for her report, I quietly enjoyed the view. It was a marvelous view, one that I do not often get to enjoy \u2013 to sit on a high place and behold a different country. It was a strange feeling, the thought that the little houses in the distance, in Boto\u0219ani County, are in a different country, and should one think critically \u2013 a different world. With such thoughts and the wind blowing very hard, it was very easy to forget the cold, that despite the thermometer reading a temperature of +6 C the wind chill made things feel as if it were below freezing. As Petru had taken care to remind me, the winds here come from Siberia.
\n\"DSC07239\"<\/p>\n

After filming the scene, we descended the cliff and hopped back into the car where we traveled south for a few miles until we reached the woods. Here, we reached the chief objective of the day \u2013 to see the endangered European bison. Here I must take note that the name ‘bison’ is a misnomer. While these magnificent animals are indeed cousins of the North American bison, the European version is a separate species. We refer to them as bison in the English speaking world because these creatures (and our knowledge of them) disappeared in Western Europe centuries ago and our knowledge and perception of them transferred to the American bison as English speakers colonized America. The old Anglo-Saxon name for European bison is weosend, which disappeared from the English language as the bovines disappeared during the Middle Ages. The modern word \u2013 wisent, is a 19th century German borrowing. <\/p>\n

With a previous range that once stretched from Western Europe to Central Asia, wisent were hunted to near extinction by the early 20th century, surviving only in the Bia\u0142owie\u017ca Forest in Poland and Belarus. All wisent in captivity today are descended from the last remaining group of nine that were found in the forest at the end of the Second World War, with numbers reaching today 5,000 found at reservations in Romania, Poland, Belarus, Russia, Lithuania, the Caucasus, and of course \u2013 Moldova. The P\u0103durea Domneasc\u0103 reservation is home to five wisents, three are adults \u2013 two males and a female, brought from Poland, while there are also two calves that have been born at the reserve. Others have been born there but they have not survived. The lack of genetic diversity resulting from the initial population bottleneck, has led to inbreeding depression, becoming one of the most significant challenges that threatens wisent conservation today.
\n\"DSC07262\"<\/p>\n

At the zimbrarie (Romanian: zimbru = wisent), we got a chance to observe the two already mature calves that were locked in a horn to horn struggle. I do not know if they were engaged in a true conflict or were they simply being playful, but the larger of the two easily defeated the other then happily trotted away to feed at a nearby barn. They are majestic creatures, a bit taller but less hairy than their North American cousins. The bison (both the European and North American species) is a wonderful example of how humanity can affect the planet, in both good and bad ways. A reckless disregard can drive a species to near extinction, while keeping a more careful eye towards nature can be very rewarding. Hopefully future generations will be able to also observe these beautiful creatures, and through them learn the importance of caring for our planet. <\/p>\n

Walking underneath the silent trees and observing the spring flowers and oak trees with Lucia and Marian, I inquired about the name of the \u201cPadure\u0103 Domneasc\u0103 (The Prince’s Forest). \u201cDid Stephen the Great come here for hunting or something similar?\u201d I joking asked. After laughing, his response was that the name was simply taken from the nearby village \u2013 Moara Domneasc\u0103. That makes sense. Thanking him for his time, I expressed my desire to visit the nature reserve again in the future, perhaps when the weather will be warmer and everything more green. The forest itself, being home to deer, boars, and other wild creatures, fascinated me. Hearing about the nearby \u201cSuta de movile\u201d definitely piqued my interest. I also thanked Lucia for the wonderful trip, glad to have been able to spend time with her, and looking forward to to the day when our mutual love for nature, beautiful scenery, history, and culture would again bring us together to explore the largely undocumented beauty of Moldova and the lands beyond.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Reading Time: <\/span> 7<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He can be reached at darius@cluj.com This time he shared with us his thoughts on the reservation P\u0103durea Domneasc\u0103. I am a big fan of the weekly television show Natura in […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":442042,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-442041","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tourism-en"],"content_social_share":"Reading Time: <\/span> 7<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>

Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He can be reached at darius@cluj.com<\/p>\n

This time he shared with us his thoughts on the reservation P\u0103durea Domneasc\u0103.<\/em><\/p>\n

I am a big fan of the weekly television show Natura in Obiectiv<\/a>. Every Sunday afternoon, for half an hour, I forget that I live in a city that suffers from endless construction projects and the clockwork traffic jams while I am taken on a sensory journey some of the most inviting and scenic locations in Moldova. It is part of what draws me to writing, my desire to document the beauty of nature. I am also good friends with the host, Lucia T\u0103ut, having known her for over seven years. Therefore, the show takes on a special meaning for me, not only to temporarily disconnect and put myself in nature, but to follow up on her adventures, and to learn more about the ethereal garden that is Moldova. Such was my joy when Lucia recently invited me to join her in filming an episode of Natura in Obiectiv. \"DSC07245\"<\/p>\n

On a windy mid-March morning I made my way to the bus stop opposite the National Bank in Chi\u0219in\u0103u and awaited the team from Moldova 1. Allow me to put emphasis on the weather that day. The climate has behaved very strangely in recent years in Eastern Europe. I visited Prague for Christmas and I found myself only needing to wear a jacket due to the unseasonably warm temperatures. Winters have been quite short and in Cluj I remember little more than 3-4 weeks of snow over the past three years all together. This year, spring arrived straight out of the groundhog’s den, leading to a very warm and pleasant February. When I visited Moldova in March however, the winter had decided to make its grand finale \u2013 a week of wet, windy, and cold weather. To my chagrin, I had also failed to remember that the lands east of the Carpathians are generally colder than those to the west. Therefore, I found myself unprepared for winter’s revenge in my thin spring jacket and scarf. After a few minutes of waiting arrived the team in their car. There was the talkative driver, Petru, the rather quiet and pensive cameraman, Vadim, and of course \u2013 Lucia, the host of the show, bright eyes full of warmth and a welcoming smile. After greeting and getting to know my new travel buddies, we departed from the capital and began making our way north. <\/p>\n

The day’s objective was to Glodeni, to visit the P\u0103durea Domneasc\u0103 Nature Reserve. We headed northwards in what turned out to be a pleasant two hour trip. There was much catching up to do between Lucia and myself, as well as being treated to many interesting stories and fun facts from Petru. To my surprise, the road was in excellent condition which only complimented the rural scenery through which we traveled. Much of the road was forested, while in other places there there were green fields winter wheat, hinting at Moldova’s summer beauty, as well as goats and sheep frolicking in the hills. I noted the lack of villages and Petru explained that we were traveling on a former Soviet military road, explaining it’s excellent condition. The road did not pass through villages but rather along their edges so that in times of emergencies, this would help to better facilitate military movements.<\/p>\n

Passing along the outskirts of B\u0103l\u021bi, we turned west into Glodeni raion where road conditions deteriorated. I became a fan of Petru’s humor, who while avoiding perilous potholes pleasantly remarked that Moldova’s roads are in better condition than those in Ukraine. I did not require any flashbacks to my travels in Ukraine to agree with him. We may have spoken too soon however, as the bumpy road led to metallic clinging noises emitting from the back end of the car. Petru spoke in fear that there may be a problem with the car, but I suddenly realized the problem. The noises were stemming from two bottles of wine rubbing against one another in my bag. That problem resolved, we soon arrived in the city of Glodeni where we awaited the arrival of a representative from the nature reserve. He arrived a few minutes later in his own car and we followed him a bit further towards the nature reserve.<\/p>\n

The city of Glodeni is not very large, being home to around 10,000 souls \u2013 primarily Moldovans and Ukrainians. The streets are built along a grid pattern, suggesting that it would be a pleasant place for walking during the summer months. Agricultural production seems to be the chief economic activity of the region, due to the large sugar factory on the western edge of the city. I imagine that would be the best way to describe Glodeni \u2013 the administrative seat of a largely agricultural raion. There was little to note beyond local administrative buildings. To underline things better, the next two villages that we passed through \u2013 H\u00eejdieni and Cobani, seemed almost as large as Glodeni itself. Cobani, in particular caught my eye due to its breathtaking scenery. There, along the River Camenca could be found many lakes and ponds. To the left of the road, there is a dramatic cliff that rises above the surrounding land, overelooking the village. At the summit I noticed a large cross planted, not unlike the one at Orheiul Veche. My curiousity stoked, I inquired with Lucia in regards to nature of these crosses, who explained that there is a tradition among Romanians to put crosses at intersections as a sign of blessing. The same holds true to villages that are located close to hills, cliffs, mounds, etc where crosses are placed on the summits in order to protect the inhabitants from evil phenomonea. They are a sign of hope and faith that God will protect them from evil and allow them to live in peace and quiet. Such is the wonder that stems from traveling – coming to a better understanding of the world as one’s mind is exposed to new concepts and local traditions. <\/p>\n

We soon arrived at the reserve alongside the River Prut and met our guide, Marian \u0162arigradschi, who led us around the area. With him, we made our way along the River Camenca where we climbed an adjacent cliff. Facing towards the west, he explained that on clear days, it is possible to see the Carpathians in Romania. While Lucia interviewed him for her report, I quietly enjoyed the view. It was a marvelous view, one that I do not often get to enjoy \u2013 to sit on a high place and behold a different country. It was a strange feeling, the thought that the little houses in the distance, in Boto\u0219ani County, are in a different country, and should one think critically \u2013 a different world. With such thoughts and the wind blowing very hard, it was very easy to forget the cold, that despite the thermometer reading a temperature of +6 C the wind chill made things feel as if it were below freezing. As Petru had taken care to remind me, the winds here come from Siberia.
\n\"DSC07239\"<\/p>\n

After filming the scene, we descended the cliff and hopped back into the car where we traveled south for a few miles until we reached the woods. Here, we reached the chief objective of the day \u2013 to see the endangered European bison. Here I must take note that the name ‘bison’ is a misnomer. While these magnificent animals are indeed cousins of the North American bison, the European version is a separate species. We refer to them as bison in the English speaking world because these creatures (and our knowledge of them) disappeared in Western Europe centuries ago and our knowledge and perception of them transferred to the American bison as English speakers colonized America. The old Anglo-Saxon name for European bison is weosend, which disappeared from the English language as the bovines disappeared during the Middle Ages. The modern word \u2013 wisent, is a 19th century German borrowing. <\/p>\n

With a previous range that once stretched from Western Europe to Central Asia, wisent were hunted to near extinction by the early 20th century, surviving only in the Bia\u0142owie\u017ca Forest in Poland and Belarus. All wisent in captivity today are descended from the last remaining group of nine that were found in the forest at the end of the Second World War, with numbers reaching today 5,000 found at reservations in Romania, Poland, Belarus, Russia, Lithuania, the Caucasus, and of course \u2013 Moldova. The P\u0103durea Domneasc\u0103 reservation is home to five wisents, three are adults \u2013 two males and a female, brought from Poland, while there are also two calves that have been born at the reserve. Others have been born there but they have not survived. The lack of genetic diversity resulting from the initial population bottleneck, has led to inbreeding depression, becoming one of the most significant challenges that threatens wisent conservation today.
\n\"DSC07262\"<\/p>\n

At the zimbrarie (Romanian: zimbru = wisent), we got a chance to observe the two already mature calves that were locked in a horn to horn struggle. I do not know if they were engaged in a true conflict or were they simply being playful, but the larger of the two easily defeated the other then happily trotted away to feed at a nearby barn. They are majestic creatures, a bit taller but less hairy than their North American cousins. The bison (both the European and North American species) is a wonderful example of how humanity can affect the planet, in both good and bad ways. A reckless disregard can drive a species to near extinction, while keeping a more careful eye towards nature can be very rewarding. Hopefully future generations will be able to also observe these beautiful creatures, and through them learn the importance of caring for our planet. <\/p>\n

Walking underneath the silent trees and observing the spring flowers and oak trees with Lucia and Marian, I inquired about the name of the \u201cPadure\u0103 Domneasc\u0103 (The Prince’s Forest). \u201cDid Stephen the Great come here for hunting or something similar?\u201d I joking asked. After laughing, his response was that the name was simply taken from the nearby village \u2013 Moara Domneasc\u0103. That makes sense. Thanking him for his time, I expressed my desire to visit the nature reserve again in the future, perhaps when the weather will be warmer and everything more green. The forest itself, being home to deer, boars, and other wild creatures, fascinated me. Hearing about the nearby \u201cSuta de movile\u201d definitely piqued my interest. I also thanked Lucia for the wonderful trip, glad to have been able to spend time with her, and looking forward to to the day when our mutual love for nature, beautiful scenery, history, and culture would again bring us together to explore the largely undocumented beauty of Moldova and the lands beyond.<\/p>\n

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