{"id":424557,"date":"2015-06-11T12:46:08","date_gmt":"2015-06-11T09:46:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.moldova.org\/?p=424557"},"modified":"2015-06-11T12:46:08","modified_gmt":"2015-06-11T09:46:08","slug":"along-lesser-traveled-roads-trip-to-moldova-part-one","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.moldova.org\/en\/along-lesser-traveled-roads-trip-to-moldova-part-one\/","title":{"rendered":"“Along lesser traveled roads”- trip to Moldova, part one"},"content":{"rendered":"Reading Time: <\/span> 6<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>

Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He can be reached at darius@cluj.com<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n

He shared with us his journal of the trip to Moldova.<\/em><\/p>\n

There is something very romantic about the trip from Cluj-Napoca to Chisinau. It is not the easiest thing to explain, especially because I cannot quite figure it out myself. Perhaps it is the geographer in me finding the transition from mountains to the slightly rolling steppes to be fascinating. Perhaps the rural Mississippi boy in me smiles at the thought of crossing the river Pruth just as the Sun begins to peek over the horizon and you can see people slowly making their way to begin the day’s work in the wheat fields. Perhaps it is even the ethnographer in me, crossing that invisible cultural boundary from one world to another – from the European Union into the former Soviet Union. Whatever the reason may be, it is one that I have made on a few occasions in the past and one that I recently got to again enjoy.<\/p>\n

Cities in Eastern Europe are not as well connected as those in the West are. A trip from Paris to Marseille is as simple as a three hour train ride. Milan can be reached from Paris in less than an hour on an EasyJet flight. Cluj to Chisinau? You are looking at a 12 hour overnight bus ride. Despite the length of time, such trips have a way of allowing you to see vast stretches of land, a smattering of various accents as people go on and leave the bus in various cities, and an opportunity for a few very uncomfortable naps. It almost takes one back into a time and place where the world was not as interconnected as it is today. One can feel almost as if he is Verne’s Phileas Fogg, exploring a world that is known to scholarship, but still remote enough to enchant the soul of a foreigner.<\/p>\n

Such as it is, one Friday afternoon I finished work, hastily stuffed my backpack with a few essentials, and headed to the bus station in Cluj-Napoca. Despite a departure time of 6pm, it would be nearly 7 before we found open road due to the Friday evening end of the work week traffic jams that are the same all over the world. The rolling hills of Transylvania soon became the heavily forested Carpathian mountains and eventually so on into the sub-Carpathian rolling hills of the badly mis-named Moldovan “Plateau.”<\/p>\n

We reached the border around 3 am, at Albi\u021ba. The passport check went without a hitch and we crossed the Pruth River into Moldova at Leu\u0219eni. Again, the passport check was a breeze and I took the opportunity to convert some of my money into Moldovan lei. I was not very certain how much I would need but if the hosts of the Ukrainian television show “Oryol i Reshka” can survive in former Soviet cities with $100 US for an entire weekend then I imagined that I would be fine. I am a big fan of the Eurolines bus that handles the Cluj – Chisinau route for the simple reason that they are very good at timing the border crossing with the rise of the early June Sun. It is quite a spectacle to have the sunrise welcome you into Moldova. One of the first things that drew me to pull back the window curtains was the sight of men and women walking slowly to the wheat fields in the twilight to engage in the art of agriculture. It is a dance that has gone on for thousands of years and I took note that early June is usually the time of year in which people often celebrate warm weather, long summer days, and defeat of winter. Having spent the past five years living in Romania, I have come to understand very well that the final end of cold days is always worth celebrating.<\/p>\n

A couple of bumpy hours later the bus arrived in Chisinau. The city was very quiet and eerie during the morning and I took note that a majority of advertisement billboards were for candidates participating in upcoming elections. For every candidate that promised Moldovans prosperity in Europe, there was one that promised trade relations and good pensions under the aegis of Russia. I got off the bus on \u0218tefan cel Mare \u0219i Sf\u00eent Boulevard and took in my bearings. Taxis can sometimes be a bit tricky to find in Chisinau but I was lucky to find one at the bus stop and from there made my way to the Gara de Nord. To the best of my knowledge, Chisinau has three bus stations – North, South, and Central. The Gara de Nord is from where one can find buses to northern cities in Moldova as well as buses to Ukraine, Belarus, and Russia. At the Gara de Sud one can find buses to southern cities in Moldova as well as to Romania. I have to make a mental note to one day ask someone to where one can go to from the central bus station.<\/p>\n

I lazily walked into the bus station with the idea of grabbing a bite before finding a bus to Soroca. As the saying goes, even the best laid plans can often go astray. I was immediately set upon by a bus driver who eagerly asked me to where I was going. “To Soroca” I replied, only to be pointed to a minibus that was already backing up to leave the bus station. I smiled ironically at my good fortune, ran to stop the minibus, managed to get on, and found a seat in the back. True to Soviet style, I asked the driver the price and passed my money ahead to the next passenger, who subsequently passed it on to the next passenger until it reached the driver. Then, my change returned the same way. Like a cold cup of kvas, it is one of those little things that endears me to this part of the world.<\/p>\n

We began heading north and I noticed a big difference from the last time I visited Moldova – the road was newly renovated and in excellent condition. In the great game of the US and Russia competing for the hearts and political souls of Georgia, Ukraine, and Moldova, an American organization has recently given Moldova money in order to modernize and renovate the Chisinau – Soroca highway. What I had fully expected to be a long bumpy ride ended up becoming a shorter and more comfortable trip with signposts every 10 kilometers reminding drivers that the money of the American people had paid for their comfortable experience.<\/p>\n

Moldova is a very beautiful country to see during the late spring. The land is very green and full of life. The geography is in some places composed of the last vestiges of the rolling sub-Carpathian hills, while in other places you see the beginnings of the great Pontic steppe. Once upon a time the country was heavily forested and it was in these forests did people seek refuge in the face of invaders from the East such as the Polovtsi and the Tatars. Along the road I see place names that are associated with historical significance – Perescina, the former capital of an early medieval Slavic tribe, Orheiul Veche – part of \u0218tefan cel Mare’s defense system, Cioc\u00eelteni – where I ate racitura for the first time in my life. My love of history is what was taking me to Soroca this day; to see the newly renovated fortress that sits proudly next to the Dniester River.<\/p>\n

Due to the nature of the road I ended up arriving in Soroca a bit earlier than I expected. Upon arrival I thanked the driver, wished him good health, and began walking from the bus station. Immediately I was waylaid by a middle aged Gypsy man who having noticed my coarse curly hair took off his hat to reveal his own similarly curled hair to me. He smiled and asked me where I am from. He was very surprised to hear that an American would ever visit Soroca. As he spoke, I began to ponder to myself where in his family tree could he have come about such hair. That is one of the most interesting things about Eastern Europe to me – being the gateway between East and West has created some very interesting genetic and cultural features among people. I smiled to myself wondering what Moldovan people were probably thinking about my American accented Russian and Romanian.<\/p>\n

It was only 10 am and the weather was already scorching hot, even for this Mississippi boy. As I saw a couple of school buses full of small children heading towards the direction of the fortress, I told myself that I could wait a while before seeing it myself and that I felt like relaxing a bit. I never travel with maps, mostly out of arrogance, and this time it came to bite me as I could not quite figure out where my hotel was. Luckily, Soroca is a small enough city to where it is easy to get directions, walk around, and I soon found the Hotel Central. It is in a lovely (as the name states – central) location and offers all the services that one could ask for in a hotel – including a terrace on a hot day. I checked in, set my backpack next to me, and drank a beer like an elephant at a watering hole on the savanna. Refreshed, and wiping the sweat from my brow, I began to reflect on how rewarding it is to travel, especially along lesser traveled roads, and to gain new perspectives on the world. \u00a0I soon found myself engaged in conversation with an older man who inquired to why would I ever want to visit Moldova. I found my inner T.E. Lawrence and replied with a smile – \u201cBecause it is clean.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Reading Time: <\/span> 6<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He can be reached at darius@cluj.com He shared with us his journal of the trip to Moldova. There is something very romantic about the trip from Cluj-Napoca to Chisinau. It is […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":417281,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-424557","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tourism-en"],"content_social_share":"Reading Time: <\/span> 6<\/span> minutes<\/span><\/span>

Darius Roby is a travel writer, translator, and an editor for Cluj.com, a city portal with information pertaining to life and tourism in Cluj-Napoca. He can be reached at darius@cluj.com<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n

He shared with us his journal of the trip to Moldova.<\/em><\/p>\n

There is something very romantic about the trip from Cluj-Napoca to Chisinau. It is not the easiest thing to explain, especially because I cannot quite figure it out myself. Perhaps it is the geographer in me finding the transition from mountains to the slightly rolling steppes to be fascinating. Perhaps the rural Mississippi boy in me smiles at the thought of crossing the river Pruth just as the Sun begins to peek over the horizon and you can see people slowly making their way to begin the day’s work in the wheat fields. Perhaps it is even the ethnographer in me, crossing that invisible cultural boundary from one world to another – from the European Union into the former Soviet Union. Whatever the reason may be, it is one that I have made on a few occasions in the past and one that I recently got to again enjoy.<\/p>\n

Cities in Eastern Europe are not as well connected as those in the West are. A trip from Paris to Marseille is as simple as a three hour train ride. Milan can be reached from Paris in less than an hour on an EasyJet flight. Cluj to Chisinau? You are looking at a 12 hour overnight bus ride. Despite the length of time, such trips have a way of allowing you to see vast stretches of land, a smattering of various accents as people go on and leave the bus in various cities, and an opportunity for a few very uncomfortable naps. It almost takes one back into a time and place where the world was not as interconnected as it is today. One can feel almost as if he is Verne’s Phileas Fogg, exploring a world that is known to scholarship, but still remote enough to enchant the soul of a foreigner.<\/p>\n

Such as it is, one Friday afternoon I finished work, hastily stuffed my backpack with a few essentials, and headed to the bus station in Cluj-Napoca. Despite a departure time of 6pm, it would be nearly 7 before we found open road due to the Friday evening end of the work week traffic jams that are the same all over the world. The rolling hills of Transylvania soon became the heavily forested Carpathian mountains and eventually so on into the sub-Carpathian rolling hills of the badly mis-named Moldovan “Plateau.”<\/p>\n

We reached the border around 3 am, at Albi\u021ba. The passport check went without a hitch and we crossed the Pruth River into Moldova at Leu\u0219eni. Again, the passport check was a breeze and I took the opportunity to convert some of my money into Moldovan lei. I was not very certain how much I would need but if the hosts of the Ukrainian television show “Oryol i Reshka” can survive in former Soviet cities with $100 US for an entire weekend then I imagined that I would be fine. I am a big fan of the Eurolines bus that handles the Cluj – Chisinau route for the simple reason that they are very good at timing the border crossing with the rise of the early June Sun. It is quite a spectacle to have the sunrise welcome you into Moldova. One of the first things that drew me to pull back the window curtains was the sight of men and women walking slowly to the wheat fields in the twilight to engage in the art of agriculture. It is a dance that has gone on for thousands of years and I took note that early June is usually the time of year in which people often celebrate warm weather, long summer days, and defeat of winter. Having spent the past five years living in Romania, I have come to understand very well that the final end of cold days is always worth celebrating.<\/p>\n

A couple of bumpy hours later the bus arrived in Chisinau. The city was very quiet and eerie during the morning and I took note that a majority of advertisement billboards were for candidates participating in upcoming elections. For every candidate that promised Moldovans prosperity in Europe, there was one that promised trade relations and good pensions under the aegis of Russia. I got off the bus on \u0218tefan cel Mare \u0219i Sf\u00eent Boulevard and took in my bearings. Taxis can sometimes be a bit tricky to find in Chisinau but I was lucky to find one at the bus stop and from there made my way to the Gara de Nord. To the best of my knowledge, Chisinau has three bus stations – North, South, and Central. The Gara de Nord is from where one can find buses to northern cities in Moldova as well as buses to Ukraine, Belarus, and Russia. At the Gara de Sud one can find buses to southern cities in Moldova as well as to Romania. I have to make a mental note to one day ask someone to where one can go to from the central bus station.<\/p>\n

I lazily walked into the bus station with the idea of grabbing a bite before finding a bus to Soroca. As the saying goes, even the best laid plans can often go astray. I was immediately set upon by a bus driver who eagerly asked me to where I was going. “To Soroca” I replied, only to be pointed to a minibus that was already backing up to leave the bus station. I smiled ironically at my good fortune, ran to stop the minibus, managed to get on, and found a seat in the back. True to Soviet style, I asked the driver the price and passed my money ahead to the next passenger, who subsequently passed it on to the next passenger until it reached the driver. Then, my change returned the same way. Like a cold cup of kvas, it is one of those little things that endears me to this part of the world.<\/p>\n

We began heading north and I noticed a big difference from the last time I visited Moldova – the road was newly renovated and in excellent condition. In the great game of the US and Russia competing for the hearts and political souls of Georgia, Ukraine, and Moldova, an American organization has recently given Moldova money in order to modernize and renovate the Chisinau – Soroca highway. What I had fully expected to be a long bumpy ride ended up becoming a shorter and more comfortable trip with signposts every 10 kilometers reminding drivers that the money of the American people had paid for their comfortable experience.<\/p>\n

Moldova is a very beautiful country to see during the late spring. The land is very green and full of life. The geography is in some places composed of the last vestiges of the rolling sub-Carpathian hills, while in other places you see the beginnings of the great Pontic steppe. Once upon a time the country was heavily forested and it was in these forests did people seek refuge in the face of invaders from the East such as the Polovtsi and the Tatars. Along the road I see place names that are associated with historical significance – Perescina, the former capital of an early medieval Slavic tribe, Orheiul Veche – part of \u0218tefan cel Mare’s defense system, Cioc\u00eelteni – where I ate racitura for the first time in my life. My love of history is what was taking me to Soroca this day; to see the newly renovated fortress that sits proudly next to the Dniester River.<\/p>\n

Due to the nature of the road I ended up arriving in Soroca a bit earlier than I expected. Upon arrival I thanked the driver, wished him good health, and began walking from the bus station. Immediately I was waylaid by a middle aged Gypsy man who having noticed my coarse curly hair took off his hat to reveal his own similarly curled hair to me. He smiled and asked me where I am from. He was very surprised to hear that an American would ever visit Soroca. As he spoke, I began to ponder to myself where in his family tree could he have come about such hair. That is one of the most interesting things about Eastern Europe to me – being the gateway between East and West has created some very interesting genetic and cultural features among people. I smiled to myself wondering what Moldovan people were probably thinking about my American accented Russian and Romanian.<\/p>\n

It was only 10 am and the weather was already scorching hot, even for this Mississippi boy. As I saw a couple of school buses full of small children heading towards the direction of the fortress, I told myself that I could wait a while before seeing it myself and that I felt like relaxing a bit. I never travel with maps, mostly out of arrogance, and this time it came to bite me as I could not quite figure out where my hotel was. Luckily, Soroca is a small enough city to where it is easy to get directions, walk around, and I soon found the Hotel Central. It is in a lovely (as the name states – central) location and offers all the services that one could ask for in a hotel – including a terrace on a hot day. I checked in, set my backpack next to me, and drank a beer like an elephant at a watering hole on the savanna. Refreshed, and wiping the sweat from my brow, I began to reflect on how rewarding it is to travel, especially along lesser traveled roads, and to gain new perspectives on the world. \u00a0I soon found myself engaged in conversation with an older man who inquired to why would I ever want to visit Moldova. I found my inner T.E. Lawrence and replied with a smile – \u201cBecause it is clean.\u201d<\/p>\n

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